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bmw / eml clutch replacement drive shaft ?

 
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docmike



Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 630
Location: Eastern NC

PostPosted: Sat Jul 21, 2012 3:14 pm    Post subject: bmw / eml clutch replacement drive shaft ? Reply with quote

I should have known this would be a PITA when the bmw shop quoted 19 hours labor Sad

Anyhow you start at the license plate and remove everything until you get to the clutch.



Yes those bolts go through the foot peg bracket, so it all has to come off. Sidecar mount also goes under the transmission and bolts on where the cneter stand used to be.



There's a clutch in there somewhere



Removed the rear cowl so I could attach a strap and dangle the bike from one of the lift arms (won't mention how many times I banged my head on the lift.)



Finally, there's the clutch, along with about half a quart of oil from a leaky o-ring.


If there's any other BMW K-bike EML people out there, here's the question.



Notice that the BMW paralever is not used. Any idea how it comes apart / anything I need to look for when it comes apart?

Thanks

Mike
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Mike Currin
93 BMW K1100RS / EML Speed 2000
89 Honda GB 500 (6,700 miles, all original except tires)
67 Triumph 650 chopper
92 Suzuki GS500 (eldest son)
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Dar



Joined: 04 Mar 2006
Posts: 336
Location: Ballston Spa, NY

PostPosted: Sun Jul 22, 2012 2:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry, Mike, I can't help you with your question at all Sad Sad

But boy o boy, it sure looks like you're having loads of fun there Big Grin Big Grin Big Grin
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David D
Suzuki Bandit 1200/Hannigan Bandito
2007 BMW F650GS
2000 Guzzi V11 Sport
2009 BMW R1200GS
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A JOURNEYMAN



Joined: 27 Jan 2007
Posts: 24
Location: Saint Louis, Missouri

PostPosted: Tue Jul 24, 2012 12:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had the shop in St. Louis do that last year. Current wisdom says to drill a hole in the bottom of the bell housing to let any oil that might seep by the seal out befor it gets to the clutch plates? You might call Shannon at Gateway BMW in St. Louis, he's a really good guy when he has TIME.
For what it's worth I do not use synthetic oil any more and just to let you know this is a common K bike problem.



Dennis
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docmike



Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 630
Location: Eastern NC

PostPosted: Wed Jul 25, 2012 1:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hadn't thought about drilling a hole. I did install an aftermarket clutch advertised as being oil proof.
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Mike Currin
93 BMW K1100RS / EML Speed 2000
89 Honda GB 500 (6,700 miles, all original except tires)
67 Triumph 650 chopper
92 Suzuki GS500 (eldest son)
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Paul



Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 182
Location: Utah

PostPosted: Wed Jul 25, 2012 3:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you drilled a hole, it seems you'd get water coming in on a rainy day.

Is the oil from the engine, or from the gearbox? In either case, the oil is a secondary problem - the main problem is that your main seal is failing. Drilling a hole gets rid of the oil (after it has nicely coated your clutch) but it won't repair your main seal, so you're in for the entire task anyway.

No idea on how to take apart the rear end, but they were pretty bulletproof (at least on solo bikes). However - take a very, very close look at the driveshaft splines while everything is apart. They were made of finest German butter, and were usually shot by 50K miles even in solo use.
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docmike



Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 630
Location: Eastern NC

PostPosted: Wed Jul 25, 2012 3:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pretty sure the oil was coming from the o-ringbetween the flywheel and the output shaft. It was hard as a rock and cracked in two when I removed it. I replaced the o-ring and the rear seal, so hopefully won't have this problem for a while.

The transmission splines looked surprisingly good, haven't seen the drive shaft splines yet.
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Mike Currin
93 BMW K1100RS / EML Speed 2000
89 Honda GB 500 (6,700 miles, all original except tires)
67 Triumph 650 chopper
92 Suzuki GS500 (eldest son)
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A JOURNEYMAN



Joined: 27 Jan 2007
Posts: 24
Location: Saint Louis, Missouri

PostPosted: Fri Jul 27, 2012 1:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

the oil will only get on the clutch when it is deep enough in the housing hence the reason for the hole.
I don't know if it works or not but I do know that no water will get in.
Of course BMWs way to fix the problem was to put a wet clutch in the new bikes!
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docmike



Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 630
Location: Eastern NC

PostPosted: Tue Jan 01, 2013 12:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The rig is back together.

The rear main seal and o-ring have been replaced twice. The lesson there is just because you buy the official BMW tool, from a BMW dealer to install the seal, it may not be machined right, and 0.020 inch really makes a difference in how deep the seal is seated.

The sidecar swingarm has been modified (again) and is a little stiffer, and the wheel ended up centered in the wheelwell this time and it doesn't stick out past the fender.



toe in and camber are now adjusted using shims and spherical washers.



Front brakes have been replumbed using stainless hard lines where ever possible. Now have good solid front brakes.

Tried a different master cylinder for the back brakes, went back to the original, back brakes still suck, seems to be typical of EML rigs.

The best news is I went on about a 35 mile ride today, first ride since having my right hip replaced, and had no pain. Last summer about 15 or 20 miles was all I could manage before I was ready to get off the thing.
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Mike Currin
93 BMW K1100RS / EML Speed 2000
89 Honda GB 500 (6,700 miles, all original except tires)
67 Triumph 650 chopper
92 Suzuki GS500 (eldest son)
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Ralph



Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 572
Location: Lexington, Ky

PostPosted: Thu Jan 03, 2013 1:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ya got to love them off brands Big Grin
P&L
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